Something was different when I woke up on Saturday morning. Apart from the part and parceled hangover from Friday night, there was an unfamiliar brightness and warmth, about the day. It was almost as though the rum from the night before still had me in her grip and I was dreaming of a far away land. A land where the sun shone brightly on a sea-laden with rainbows as the light reflected and refracted off the spray triggered by the gentle offshore breeze. But I wasn’t dreaming, this was actually happening and after the stormy, blustery, unforgiving surf that I had become accustomed to over the winter, it soon became clear that this was better than any rum-induced dream could possibly be.
Perrenporth was on fire! The banks caused by the winter storms lit up, creating a playground full of wide-open barrels, but as the tide dropped out behind the cliffs at Droskyn, it got heavy and after taking more than one beating on the shallow banks, I thought it best to ditch my board and grab my camera to document the first real spring day of 2014.
Sunday started much in the same vein as Saturday, only now there was no hangover so I was a little less concerned by the bright shiny light in the sky. What did perplex me slightly though was where to surf. MSW had forecast 10ft of swell from the West at 16secs with a moderate Southerly wind, which immediately set my homing device for the Bluff. However, low tide was only at 4:30pm and I was gagging to get in. I made a few phone calls and everyone apart from Rowan Le Sage either had plans to head out later or was to broken from the day before.
Rowan and I came up with a plan, we would head to Mexico’s and surf there while the tide droppedout and then head down to Hayle for a late afternoon session, but we would check Hayle first just in case the swell was big enough to push though the tide.Arriving at Hayle, we realized that every man and their dog had decided to make the most of the fine weather. Cars were parked on double yellows all the way along Churchtown Road. Walking towards the Bluff I could see a perfect shoulder high, barreling left, but we soon realized that this was between sets and about five minutes later a proper set came through.
To say the Bluff was pumping would be an understatement. Ous were getting full stand up barrels down the entire length of the beach, but it was hard work, you had to pick the right wave; failure to do so resulted in a crushing slam onto the shallow sandbank and swimming out to take photos I saw a few snapped boards……and some amazing surfing.
The waves pumped all day, all weekend, through both tides and, to top it all off, we were blessed with a magic sunset. I hope the next dream I have comes close to the reality of this weekend.